Abstract

This study aimed to investigate using gold-wrapped thread in Pandai Sikek songket in Minangkabau. This qualitative study analyzed more than 120 fabric samples from several local weavers. The local weavers are weavers descending through the lineage of their ancestors in Pandai Sikek village. In-depth interviews and observations were undertaken with notable weavers at Pandai Sikek to explore the development of gold-plated metal thread usage in Pandai Sikek woven fabric (songket) as fabric motifs and their role in preserving local cultural heritage. The findings of the study discovered that the weavers continue to maintain traditional practices taught from generation to generation through the lineage of their ancestors. Nevertheless, there is a change in the use of gold thread. Initially, the weaving process used metal material comprising gold-wrapped thread, which has now changed into synthetic gold and silver thread. This study discusses the impact of the change from metal gold thread to synthetic gold thread on the sustainability of Pandai Sikek songket weaving, the identity of the Minangkabau community. The study also suggests future developments for the advancement and sustainability of Pandai Sikek woven fabrics.