Fourteenth International Conference on Food Studies

Abstract

Since the 15th century indigenous foods of the Americas–from corn to potatoes—have globalized and adapted to multiple geographies becoming integral to local cuisines and national diets around the world. These staple crops have become essential to global food security. Quinoa, technically a seed and a pseudo cereal, has been for many years the source of food security for indigenous populations of the Andes while despised by many as a low status food or “comida de Indio.” As such, quinoa remained relatively unknown in the West and its nutritional benefits were until recently largely ignored. In the early 21st century one may say that quinoa has globalized and fully gentrified. This paper traces the changing status of quinoa as a novel crop extracted from the Andes that gained popularity in western markets by appealing to middle class and upper-class consumers. Conversely, this Western appeal contrasts with the challenges faced by local farming communities in the Andes who struggle to retain and protect their native seeds, valorize Andean crops, and reach local markets at affordable prices. At the interstices of culture and place making are food systems that may belong to multiple places all at once, yet their rootedness and place of origin must not be forgotten as seed diversity and cultural plurality remain entwined.