Thirteenth International Conference on Food Studies

Abstract

With the advent of modernity and the globalization of capitalism, the Cordilleran agricultural landscape and foodscape have continuously evolved as cultural heritage slowly fades away from generation to generation. Despite modernity and its influence on the agricultural landscape in the Cordillera, the coffee agricultural scene in Cordillera presents a unique coffee foodscape. As an Ibaloi-Kankanaey fellow coming from a family of coffee entrepreneurs and traders, I grew curious about the intersection of coffee, people, and indigenous culture, particularly in the context of the Cordillera Administrative Region. This paper documents the existing tangible and intangible cultural heritage attached to coffee, specifically culinary heritage and indigenous foodscape. Through the ethnographic approach, I navigated this intersection in the context of the Ibaloi and Kankana-ey farmers in Caliking, Atok, where I entered the scene as an insider - a green coffee buyer and a roaster, several times throughout 2022. This paper showcases the everyday lived experiences of indigenous coffee farmers within the setting and capture the farmer’s voice. Data sources include interviews, life narratives, participant observation, photo documentation, and secondary research. Results show that coffee has a rich role in the indigenous agricultural systems of the Ibaloi and Kankana-ey communities in Caliking, Atok. Agricultural system reflects evidence of environmental circularity and sustainability. This study contributes to the literature on coffee and coffee agriculture studies in the Philippines, with the goal of strengthening the foundation for an anthropology of coffee in the Philippines while maintaining a decolonized framework