Abstract
Ajrakh, an age-old textile from Sindh, Pakistan, is now predominantly produced in isolated locations in Western India and Eastern Pakistan, particularly in Sindh, Barmer, and Kutchh. Recently, Ajrakh of Kutchh has been granted a Geographical Indication (GI) tag by the Office of the Controller General of Patents, Designs, and Trademarks. Despite a valuable recognition of this textile tradition, the mass commercial exploitation of it is distancing Ajrakh from its original form and diminishing its social and cultural significance. Ajrakh is a cultural heritage deeply embedded in the traditions of its patron communities. These changes have impacted Ajrakh’s true identity. This study focuses on the Barmer district of western Rajasthan to understand the reasons behind these changes and the challenges faced by Ajrakh artisans. Employing a participatory research approach, oral narratives, and songs were collected through interviews with the Ajrakh artisans in Barmer, and the printing processes were examined closely. The research highlights the cultural significance of Ajrakh in contrast to its commercialization and addresses the decline of this textile printing tradition along with its current challenges. These challenges are marked by the demand for mass production in the market, the availability of raw materials, the participation of the Khatri block printer community, religious faith, and socio-cultural practices. The study also explores the dichotomy between culturally driven and market-driven crafts, caste, family legacy, economic sustainability, and migration versus labor immigration. This paper provides a comprehensive discussion on these grounds, aiming to highlight the cultural integrity of Ajrakh.
Presenters
Suman PandeyAssistant Professor, Design Department, Gujarat Law Society University, Gujarat, India
Details
Presentation Type
Paper Presentation in a Themed Session
Theme
Economic, Social, and Cultural Context
KEYWORDS
Ajrakh, Khatri, Cultural Sustainability, Artisan migration, Labor immigration
