Eleventh International Conference on Food Studies

Abstract

Many fermented foods are notorious for their stinky odor. Buru, a fermented rice and fish concoction from the Kapampangan region of the Philippines is no different. The cat vomit-likened condiment is associated with a characteristic stink or “bantot”. Despite the smell, buru has become well-entrenched in the food culture— enjoyed best as accompaniment for grilled fish and steamed-vegetables. The stinky smellscape however appears to be in transition with both product and olfactory aesthetic suggesting buru deodorization. To demonstrate this sensory transition, this paper follows the material transformation of buru, and the smell preferences for buru among its consumers and makers in Candaba, Pampanga. It identifies the rise in popularity and continuous improvements of commercial buru as predominant factors in the changes of the buru osmocosm. The shift to higher salt concentration fermentations, fresh fish usage and commercial rice specifically have collectively generated a “clean buru” discourse. Such discourse not only establishes odorless buru as quality standard for buru-making but also reinforces stinky buru as a panolfacton, a social measure of a buru-maker’s skill and moral character. This paper concludes with the not so favorable implications of buru deodorization in fermentation practice and more broadly in food and nutrition security and sustainability.