Abstract

The “Ankara” print, an African fabric rooted in the Dutch Wax Print popularized during Africa’s colonization, has recently had an astonishing impact on Western fashion, especially in the United States and United Kingdom. The trend impacts the art world as well, which cross-fertilizes current fashion design. Partly due to identity and their African-heritage/pride, artists such as Yinka Shonibare and Njideka Akunyili Crosby convey ideas about identity politics, racism, and colonialism through post-colonialism. New proliferation is driven by online media and technological improvements in printing. Patterns designed authentically in western Africa can be sent electronically to Europe for artisanal printing. Ankara’s recent upsurge is widely visible, from sumptuous textile shops in African American neighborhoods and beyond to upscale magazine fashion shoots. Teaching about its history and technologies has inspired discoveries in computer-based fabric design, described within. Ankara is central to works of fine arts at top tier museums, in major cities of the US, all the way to the Israel Museum, with endless exposure in Europe. It took off throughout social media via Instagram, Pinterest, and paparazzi, and relentlessly adapts to the times. Ankara stays relevant with motifs based on contemporary life—a leading factor in designing and teaching about this aesthetic. Unpacking the wax print’s technical complexity, wonderfully rich history and social issues behind its new-found trendiness, this paper examines the trajectory of this African design wave. Referencing the tutelage and practice of students of all races, this first-hand creativity experience, along with historic and contemporary sources of inquiry, informs this investigation on a far-reaching trend.